Its inland landscapes, powerful and enclosed, dominated by mountains, peaks, torrents and gorges, but also scent-filled scrubland, pine forests, cork oaks, olive groves and vineyards. Everywhere winding roads and fabulous trekking paths. Superb villages perched at the top of hills, hanging over sheer rock faces. Wherever you look, breath-taking panoramas delight the eyes. The sea, the mountains and the sky united in perfect harmony. Proud and magnificent, Corsica bewitches.

The history of Corsica has been tumultuous, to put it mildly. The island was invaded over ten times. At first by peoples of the western Mediterranean, later by Phoenicians—who established trading posts—followed by Carthaginians, Greeks, Etruscans, and Romans. It was also conquered—in part, never entirely—by Saracens, before being dominated by Pisa and then Genoa, the latter for five very turbulent centuries, which explains the presence of so many fortresses, ramparts, and stone watchtowers. The island only became French at the end of the 18th century, just before the birth, in Ajaccio, of its most famous native son, Napoleon Bonaparte. In the following century, Corsica, isolated and bypassed by the industrial revolution that was taking over the Continent, went through a period of great poverty, obliging many natives to leave the island. They say that at the time ten times as many Corsicans lived outside of Corsica than lived in it. But families feel a strong attachment, and love for their native land remains strong. As a well-known local puts it: “When he leaves his island, a Corsican doesn’t go away: he is merely absent.” Corsica is the most mountainous island in the Mediterranean. The mountain range that stretches from the northwest to the southeast includes more than 15 summits that are over 2,500 meters high, and divides the island. Since there is no point on the island that is very far from the sea (40 km maximum), mountain streams rush down the slopes at prodigious speeds; this is a land of gorges and waterfalls. A sublime landscape rewards hikers, especially those who take the famous “GR 20,” a trail that runs the length of the mountains range. The most remarkable hiking trail in Europe, according to connoisseurs. It is located in the Corsica Natural Regional Park, which covers more than a third of the island and is the most beautiful nature reserve in the Mediterranean basin. This park’s mission is not only to protect nature, but also to help to sustain the local rural economy and its habitants.

Protecting nature is an edifying task when one considers the richness of the flora and fauna of Corsica. The inherent protection that an island offers against external aggression is not sufficient; the ecological balance is fragile, and continually threatened. Certain animal species have completely disappeared; luckily, others, like the osprey, have been saved or re-introduced. An intense effort may save this mountain fauna, the most emblematic example being the Corsican mountain sheep. Vast swathes of land are covered by forest: pine or beach in the upper altitudes, chestnut and cork oak farther down. The chestnut tree, the symbol of the island, has nourished generations of peasants and farmers over the centuries thanks to chestnut flour. The Genoese administration went as far as to limit families to four chestnut trees apiece! In some areas, tradition dictated that wedding feasts include twenty-two chestnut-based dishes. Today these trees, much less numerous than before, primarily serve as a source of food for wild boar and pigs. Corsican ham and other cured pork products are highly reputed for their exceptional quality. As for other farm animals, goats, sheep, and cows have successfully adapted to local conditions and given birth to specifically Corsican breeds. Raising these breeds has long been the island’s primary activity, and has created an artisanal cheese industry with an excellent reputation. Who has not savored “the” island’s specialty, the succulent brocciu, a farmer’s cheese made from a mix of goat and sheep’s milk? This delicacy is an ingredient in many Corsican dishes, including soups, omelets, and cannellonis.

Corsica has more than 1,000 km of rocky coastline. The exception is most of the eastern coast, which is flat, sandy, and framed by large ponds and lakes. These beaches are, along with the sun, the island’s prize possessions, and thus have been largely preserved. Born in the 19th century, tourism has developed considerably in the last decades with the increase of reliable transport between the island and the continent. The Corsican seaside has always inspired writers and painters, and bewitched tourists. The cliffs of Cap Corse. The coves of Porto. The citadels of Calvi and Bonifacio. So many other seascapes. Huge beaches with fine sand. Tiny ports where boats rock in the waves. Fishing villages with brightly colored houses crowded around a church. In the background, hills covered with scrub. Corsica, of course! In all its splendor, its authenticity. And what about the splendid Mediterranean light? The most beautiful homage comes from the painter Matisse: “It was by going to that marvelous country that I learned how to know the Mediterranean. I was dazzled; over there everything shines, everything is color, everything is light.”

The sea, the isolation, affects the life of the land and its people and shapes their way of life. So it’s not surprising that their sense of belonging is so strong and that their traditions are so vital! Language is an important means of expression for this Corsican individualism, as are polyphonic music and songs, which are becoming popular again. Corsica is also a land of legends, beliefs, and rituals. For example, they say that shepherds, being close to nature, know how to read signs and predict the future from what they see in a goat kid’s leg, and that seers know how to cure all sorts of illnesses and can even heal from a long distance. One also hears that witches come to suck the blood of children during the night and that you must throw a few drops of oil in a dish to detect the spells and undo them…

During the Roman era, the Pisans who occupied the island constructed cathedrals and churches with walls made of a variety of exceptionally colored stones. Later, starting in the 16th century, the Genoans erected ramparts and bastions to protect towns. They also built many watchtowers on the coast to act as a reference point for ships, to serve as customs offices in the ports, and to alert the troops when barbaric pirates approached. The flag bearing a skull and crossbones is a reminder of these attacks! The remains of some 90 watchtowers still survey the coast. The many fortifications (Bonifacio, Corte, Calvi, St-Florent, etc.) are a major tourist highlight in the Corsican landscape. Baroque religious edifices, influenced by the Genoese, have beautiful facades covered with vaults and archways, as well as richly decorated interiors. The bell towers, or campanili, many remarkable for the quality of their stonework and carving, are often built separately from the church, like in Italy. In the poorer villages, people simply tied the bell to the branch of a tree!

When talking about the quality of life in Corsica, you often here the proverb: “eat, drink, and be merry,” to which you can also add the excellent climate and the beauty of the landscape. An authentic way of life that has its roots deep in the past. To the trilogy of local traditional products—smoked pork, cheeses, and wines—one can add regional fruits (clementines, kiwis, avocados), as well as fish and seafood. Goat kid meat is found in many recipes, including the famous polenta stew, a local specialty. All around the island, tradition inspires numerous festivals and events: Napoleonic festivals, processions, concerts, Corsican poetry, Corsican singing, pork fairs, brocciu days, festivals dedicated to chestnuts, local products, wines, olives, almonds, etc.
Respect for tradition is part of the moral principals of a proud people. The Corsican soul.

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