Unique in its geographical situation, which invariably makes one think of a ship’s bow ploughing through the ocean, in the power of its winds and tides on which human activity depends. Unique too because no other French region is more attached to such a rich, such an authentic culture and heritage. Multiple because it is hard to find in one region such a diversity of landscapes, so many tourist marvels, exposed or hidden, a coast (Armor) so extraordinarily carved, so finely sculpted, dotted with islands, and an inland country (Argoat) so hilly. A land of a thousand faces constantly changing throughout the day, always different, always.

History sometimes teaches us that handicaps can end up as blessings in disguise. This province, which for centuries remained isolated, difficult to access, lived for a long time in autarchy. Its children left the country. The saga of the Paris “bougnats” who migrated to Paris is legendary. Arriving on the streets of Paris without a penny in pocket, they worked themselves to the bone delivering wood and coal. Several years later they would buy a small bistro, then a larger one. And in their later years, they would retire to their native country. Times have changed. No longer isolated, Auverge has experienced profound changes, yet without losing much of its native character. Its rugged landscapes have been preserved. In this country, there are no soaring summits, no peaks towering above the clouds, but rather mountains with harmonious skylines, a serene majesty, grassy knolls, forests with a wide variety of trees, pure water lakes and an incredible network of streams and rivers running down towards the plains. This beautiful nature is unquestionably an asset for increasingly popular green tourism.

The summits – among which The Puys de Sancy, the Puys de Dôme and the Monts du Cantal stand out – emerged from the bowels of the earth. The region boasts a total of 200 “puys” (volcanic hills). Once the volcanoes became extinct, the landscapes created by the lava flows and the rocks and the ash cones were submitted to the effects of erosion. After the fire, water accomplished its role, giving rise to splendid landscapes. A visit to Auverge offers a unique chance in France to discover and understand these complex phenomena that strike our imagination. A huge effort has been made to protect these sites and to provide visitors with all the educational resources they need. A natural volcano park has been created to ensure conservation of the sites and to improve access and resources. The mythical summit of the Puy de Dôme, standing at the gateway of the city of Clermont-Ferrand, has given its name to the Department. In the era of the Gauls (Auverne tribe) it was considered a sacred mountain It stands today like a sentinel, offering a superb panorama over the Limagne plain.

The volcanic activity occurred in the past explains the existence of the many thermal and mineral water sources and the huge development in spas. The properties of these water sources, which have been recognized since Roman times, were rediscovered in the 18th century, leading to the establishment of pleasant water villages, renowned throughout France. Vichy water cures liver conditions, Royat the heart and arteries, St-Nectaire the kidneys, The Mont-Doré asthma and the lungs, La Bourboule lymphatism and the lungs, etc…Auvergne is France’s leading spa region, an activity that is often coupled with holidays in a relaxing, tonic environment at medium altitude. Mountain walking, fishing and horse-riding provide pleasant complementary leisure activities between Spring and Autumn, while winter sports, in particular cross-country skiing, which is well adapted to the landscapes, are available in the cold season.

Auverge and on a wider scale the Massif central – which includes the Limousin and Marche regions to the West, the Bourbonnais in the North, the Causse and Cévenne mountain ranges to the South – is a land of water sources. There are the sources of the Loire and its foremost affluents – the Allier, which crosses the Limagne region, the economic hub of Auvergne, the Cher, the Creuse and the Vienne. The source of the Dordogne springs from the Puy de Sancy. The main affluents of the Garonne : the Tarn, the Aveyron and the Lot, flow down from the Cévennes mountain range, which is the Southern buttress of the Massif Central. The sources of the Gard and the Hérault flow into the Mediterranean, while the Ardèche, springs from the Vélay mountains. This gigantic water tower, a source of life, plays a major role in France’s ecosystem. Very early on hydroelectric power stations were erected on the banks of the fastest-flowing or steepest rivers. These rivers, some tranquil, some agitated, provide a perfect environment for all kinds of leisure activities : fishing (especially trout or salmon), canoeing, kayak, as well as sailing or wind-surfing on the lakes and laguna. Auvergne boasts a number of beautiful mountain lakes with clear blue waters, authentic jewels encased in forests or rolling pasturelands.

Auvergnat agriculture long ago abandoned some of its primary crops, such as barley and rye, which were once vital for survival and turned towards livestock farming, which is well adapted to the geography and hydrology of the region. Several bovine races are of local origin, such as the Salers with its beautiful fire-coloured coat or the Aubrac. From Spring to Autumn, the herds graze in the “estives” – high mountain pastures. According to an age-old tradition, cheese is manufactured in the “burons”, rustic dwellings with flagstone roofs that are a typical feature of the pastoral landscape. The common name for this cheese is Fourme, also known as Cantal and the farm-produced cheeses like Saint-Nectaire, fourme d’Ambert, Auvergne blue cheese have a long-standing reputation.

Considering the importance of livestock farming and cheese making to the region, the role of regional trade fairs, notably cattle markets, is easy to understand. These picturesque markets were an important occasion in the traditional way of life of the region’s inhabitants. The peasants in blue overalls, holding their animal by the halter and bargaining for hours with buyers, have often been featured in films. The conclusion of the sale consisted of an oral agreement and a handshake. Nothing was ever written down ! For a long time, certain traditional trades have been associated with Auvergne : wood and coal merchants, cutlers (in Thiers), lava stone cutters (Volvic), paper manufacturers (in Livradois), gentian gatherers (Salers), lace-makers (Le Puy) or boilermakers (Aurillac). Times have changed but people are still very attached to their traditions. Music and traditional dances are regularly revived by local folk groups. It should be remembered that the “bourrée auvergnate”, a local group dance, was extremely popular at one time and featured in all the happy moments of peoples lives throughout the center of France. Danced in traditional gear and clogs, it has even featured in the salons of Paris…

The heritage of Auvergne is one of the richest in Romanesque Art. Many churches were erected between the 11th and 12th centuries. Small in size, solid and compact, they are characterised by great stylistic harmony. It is said that the pilgrims on the Way of Saint James, coming from Vézelay and on their way to Conques, were greatly impressed by the buildings that marked out the road. This Romanesque art is beautifully represented in Orcival, Issoire, St-Nectaire and Notre-Dame-du-Port in Clermont-Ferrand. The Chaise-Dieu and Puy-en-Velay sites are exceptional. The former reached its historic peak when one of the monks of the Abbey was named Pope, with the name of Clément VI. The second is unique in France : volcanic dikes rise up above a basin on the banks of the Loire, on which religious monuments and parts of the town have been built. The Notre-Dame-du-Puy cathedral, one of the most original and beautiful Romanesque buildings, was the departure point for one of the main routes of the Way of Saint James. Other impressive sights in the region are the castles erected on rocky outcrops, symbols of the authority of local lords. Through the discovery of the many features of this region’s heritage, the visitor turns the pages of its proud history. Although it was often relatively discreet, several of its children had outstanding destinies, such as Vircengétorix, the chief of the “hundred tribes of Gaul”, the scientist Blaise Pascal or La Fayette, the hero of the “New World”.

The festive calendar of the region demonstrates its attachment to the traditions, customs and local produce : the estive festival, the cherry fair, the praline fair, the St-Nectaire fair, the bread and ancient trades fair, the garlic and wine fête, the basket fair, the blueberry fair, the pottery market, the chestnut fair, the turkey festival, the sheperd’s pilgrimage carnival, the story-telling festival, the medieval gala, etc…. Thanks to its abundant local produce, Auvergne cuisine is well known for its invigorating dishes, symbolised by the potée, a hotpot of pork and cabbage. Today, it has adapted to contemporary tastes and proposes lighter recipes which delight the most demanding palates while taking their inspiration from local tradition. Tripoux, truffade or aligot, depending on the local given name and the sausages and hams of Velay are widely renowned. As for cheese, it remains the star of the Auvergne table, with fourme de Salers or d’Ambert, Auvergne blue cheese, Saint-Nectaire, Gaperon with garlic (Limagne) or Cabecou with walnut oil… With its authentic local produce, its blossoming, well preserved natural environment, Auvergne is a region where happiness is easy to find.

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