Those who appreciate leisurely strolls will be immediately tempted to explore the picturesque Place des Arceaux and the adjacent alleyways. They will soon discover lovely half-timbered houses, luminously whitewashed, framed in deep red (the emblematic Basque color), with mullioned windows and sculpted lintels. Each façade is different, but together they make a delightfully harmonious ensemble. It’s not surprising that La Bastide Clairence has been labeled one of the “Most Beautiful Villages in France.”

Born at the beginning of the 14th century, the village is typical of southern bastides, fortified towns built on a grid plan. Founded on a small tributary of the Ardour called la Joyeuse, the local lords made sure the town welcomed the various peoples living in the area, such as the Gascons and the Basques, those passing through, pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, as well as refugees from the south. Jews who were chased from Portugal and Spain during the inquisition settled here for two centuries; the old Jewish cemetery dates from this period.

The bastide was active for a very long time and its hard-working cosmopolitan population gave it a solid reputation for its craftmen. The town was particularly known for its smiths, nail makers, and locksmiths. Today this reputation continues, if the crafts have taken different forms. These days La Bastide Clairence is known for its arts and crafts, and for being a place where you can find quality glassworkers, potters, weavers, cabinetmakers, painters, and sculptors. The contributions of these artists and artisans make the village even more attractive.

Art lovers will be drawn to the town church, a fine example of pure Basque style with its upper galleries in wood, and its own original flair. It is the only church of this type with a “courtyard cemetery:” On the floor of the exterior covered galleries there are tombstones with engraved inscriptions in homage to the old bastide families buried there.

It is no secret that Basques love a good party. La Bastide Clairence firmly espouses this joie de vivre, celebrating all artistic forms, including dance, singing, and games. Colorful festivities take place all year long, filling this small community with energy and life. A few not-to-be-missed events in spring and fall 2011:
June 24: Basque dances (with the children of the Esperantza dance group)
July 17: Festival of Port Bridges (with demonstrations of traditional trades)
July 22–25: Town Festival
August 10: International Folkdance Festival
September 10¬–11: Pottery Market
And let’s not forget the festivals celebrating the different neighborhoods of the town. Visit the tourist office website (www.labastideclairence-pays-basque.com) for dates and information

The nearby environs of La Bastide Clairence offer many possibilities for interesting day trips: Bellocq Abby; Urt and Urcuit, charming typical Basque villages; Bidache with its prestigious past; Guiche and its castle; Hasparren and the caves of Oxocelhaya and Isturitz; and of course, St-Palais, the former capital of Basse-Navarre on the main trail to Santiago de Compostela with its chapels, bridges, and cobblestone streets; a town of traditional Basque sports like pelote and demonstrations of the legendary Basque rural sports, or Force Basque. Spectacular!

La Bastide-Clairence may demonstrate the strength of its Force Basque, but it not afraid of showing its quiet side. Far from the clamor of the seaside resorts in the summer, it draws visitors with its special atmosphere, especially on Friday nights when the evening farmer’s market takes place. On the Place des Arceaux, the main square, a cornucopia of local products are laid out in a delicious display. Local farmers sell their duck confit, fois gras, peppers, ham, sheep cheese, honey, spice bread, and of course, gateau Basque, a traditional cake…as well as many other authentic regional products to delight the palates of the most demanding gourmets. All the many flavors of Basque Country in one of its most beautiful settings.
Text ©Isabelle Brigout, photos © La bastide Clairence tourism office