Limoges, Aubusson, Guéret, Pompadour and Peyrat-le-Château

Limousin and BerryTwo central regions in France, located between the Armoricain Massif, which borders the Auvergne region, and the Massif Central, bordering the Loire Valley.

Two regions with a vibrant agricultural tradition, attached to their authentic rural way of life, to their still vivacious customs, to their folklore and legends and to refined crafts (enamel, china, tapestry) which have brought them international renown. They take pride in their beautiful heritage, with their unspoiled countryside, shaped by a vast network of rivers flowing down from the Massif central. Two regions where the local produce has inspired a refined culinary tradition.

These two regions have inspired several famous writers to produces pages of delightful poetry. Georges Sand, nicknamed the « good lady of Nohant » - the village where she was born and died – describes lyrically the Berry landscapes, the small villages and their inhabitants in several famous novels. Jean Giraudoux – born in Bellac – recalls the Limousin region, the land of his childhood, with a loving pen. He describes it as a moving « land of streams and hills, interlaced with a patchwork of fields and chestnut groves… ». Here, there is nothing aggressive about the landscape, it is quintessentially calm, harmonious, balanced : the undulating plateaux and meadows, veined with streams and rivers, the brightly-coloured lines of hedges and the edges of forests bordering the pastures, the ponds and the small lakes where the herds water. Even the changing colours of the skies, the deep character of its native people, born and living in these lands, reflect this balance of nature.

Berry agriculture underwent profound changes during the last century and the region became one of France’s prime cereal producers. Cattle raising draws on two famous bovine breeds, the Charolaise and the Limousine, from neighbouring regions, both dedicated to meat production. Sheep rearing, which has always been a staple feature of the region’s economy, allows the inhabitants to get the best out of the infertile lands, whilst goat rearing has flourished. The Crottin de Chavignol, pyramides du Valençay or the pavé de Levroux cheeses are famous. Towards the Loire valley, the Sancerre is a well-known wine-producing area. One of the original features of the Berry landscape, one of its tourist attractions, is the existence of many wet areas (ponds, lakes and pools), especially in the Brenne, a precious nature reserve for water fauna and flora.

Unlike the Berry, a land of calm waterways, the Limousin region features extensive white water. It is a much hillier region, with its Eastern façade bordering on the foothills of the Massif Central, alongside the Plateau de Mille Vaches, with its countless springs, and the mountains of Monédières, an infertile country of sheep rearing, welcoming in the Summer months with slopes covered in mauve heather, harsh during the Winter. Or the mountains of d’Ambazac and Blond and La Marche, areas of woodland and livestock farming. Because the Limousin is above all the land of the magnificent, red-coated Limousin breed. This breed breed, constantly improved over centuries of rearing, provides one of the world’s most famous quality meats. Another branch that has emerged in this region is that of veal raised « under the mother », in other words nourished exclusively on its mother’s milk, supplying meat of exceptional quality.

This land remains very marked by its rural tradition, even though the inhabitant’s living conditions are in no way comparable today to what they used to be. Traditions and certain customs are still very much alive. In the past, there were a number of trades that were typically « Limousin », such as « feuillardier ». In their huts deep in the heart of the forest, these craftsmen cut long, flat and flexible pieces of chestnut wood to manufacture baskets, chairs, armchairs, tables, barrel hoops, handles for tools, rakes and crates. These « woodmen » showed remarkable inventiveness in making the most out of the tree of the land, since the Limousin has always been the country of the chestnut, a tree precious both for its wood, which has many properties (framework, planks) and for its fruit.

It is two other trades, two trades of the art of fire in which the artist merges with the craftsman, which have contributed to the world-wide reputation of Limoges, making it the uncontested capital of enamel and china. The history of enamelling art is mysterious. Some historians claim that this art originated in Venice, before finding its home in the Limousin. This is not a fully established historical fact however. An authentic school of enamelling art was founded in the Limousin at the turn of the 10th century and painted enamels began to appear as early as the 15th century. At the beginning, these enamels were essentially used for religious objects : altar tables, reliquaries, statues of saints, etc. Enamelling art continued, the techniques were enriched and today’s artists give free rein to their imagination.

Beside this ancient art appeared another in the 18th century, china. This craft first emerged following an intervention of the general administrator of the Limousin, Turgot. This development was made possible thanks to the availability of a raw material, china clay, which has the property of remaining extraordinarily white after firing. The name of Limoges is associated with an exceptional quality of its porcelain, which is immaculately white. According to one anecdote, before he became famous, Renoir the painter, who was born in Limoges, developed his skills painting roses on china dishes…This industry has flourished and has become an essential component of the region’s economy. Craftsmen and contemporary artists carry out authentic works of art. Limoges china is the region’s fairest ambassador and features on every important dining table throughout the world.

Another highly artistic activity has given La Marche widespread recognition : the tapestries of Aubusson. It’s in this small town, on the banks of the Creuse river, with its pure waters, that this magnificent art was imported from Flanders in the 16th century. At the time of Colbert, its workshops were awarded the title of Royal Manufactury, on a par with the Manufacture des Gobelins. This art saw periods of prosperity (over 2000 craftsmen weavers in Aubusson in 1900), but also difficult periods, particularly between the two world wars. The famous tapestry of “The Lady and the Unicorn” was manufactured in Aubusson. Revived with the help of contemporary artists such as Jean Lurçat, this activity flourished once again. In terms of artistic heritage, the Limousin and Berry regions have other assets. Thus the Limousin has a number of beautiful fortified churches, monasteries, castles and finely wrought Lanterns of the Dead. As for the town of Bourges, it boasts a superb jewel, the cathedral of Saint Etienne, one of the greatest masterpieces of Gothic Art, with its splendid stained glass windows and the famous Jacques Coeur palace.

Local customs are often attached to beliefs or superstitions. It is said that in former times, the inhabitants of the Berry region were convinced that witches, most likely inspired by the devil, could cast spells on people, homes or livestock. In order to ward off the evil eye, the pious flocked to the churches to sprinkle themselves with holy water. Children trembled when they were told stories of werewolves who would make wolves dance in the moonlight or who scoured seven parishes in search of their prey. Other strange creatures haunted the countryside, freeing domestic animals from their stables, pushing huge rocks down the ravines. And during the evenings, story-tellers would transmit these legends.

Different events and festivals contribute to the revival of local customs and traditions, especially with regard to music. Groups of male and female dancers, in traditional garb, are accompanied by musicians playing ancient instruments like the hurdy-gurdy, the cabrette, the bagpipes, as well as the accordion. The “bourrée” and the “pélélé” are becoming popular once more in the Limousin ! In the past, there wasn’t a single wedding procession moving from the church to the town hall that wasn’t led by musicians playing regional tunes. There are many festivals and fetes, amongst which the Limousin troubadors, the romantic festivals in the country of Georges Sand, the witch fairs, the “grebes baudes” (harvest festival), the crayfish festival, the festival of fresh-water fish, the brotherhoods of the small belly or of “black bottoms” (a pork variety), the festival of snails, the presentation of stallions and horse-drawn carriages in Pompadour, etc…

Gastronomy is an essential feature of the region. Regional livestock supplies Limousine meat sprinkled with parsley of exceptional quality, beef and Bob Veal, which has a hazelnut flavour, but also pigs. Stuffing is often made out of a mix of veal and pork. Hares are stuffed with veal, pork and ham. Trout fished in white water are enriched with melted lard. Limousin blood sausage is always prepared with chestnuts. It is said that in the past, the best local cooks “knew how to do much with little”, including produce from their poultry-yard and garden. Today, imagination and passion continue to inspire dishes based on the recipes of the past.
The art of blending the past and the present. For the greater pleasure of gourmets.

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