A land of sun, light, azure blue skies washed by the Mistral wind, picturesque coastlines, silver olive trees, lavender fields, fragrant scrublands, pine forests ringing with the song of cicadas. A land that boasts an astonishing variety of prestigious sites, both natural and man-made, dotted with picturesque villages and major historical towns. This region is a crossroads of Mediterranean cultures, which have bequeathed their exceptional legacy : triumphal arches, arenas and theatres. A land steeped in its legends and traditions, hailed by its poets, in the language of the troubadours. A land of contrasts, of cultural clashes and the small pleasures of everyday life.

The Greeks, who appreciated its strategic location, chose Marseille for a port that would become one of the busiest trading posts on the Mediterranean. During the Roman occupation, the province—crossed by the Via Domitia, which connected Rome with Spain and the Via Agrippa, which led towards northern Europe—experienced intense development, as evidenced by its many prestigious ruins. The arena and theater of Arles, the triumphal arch and theater of Orange, and the remains of living quarters in Vaison-la-Romaine are among the best preserved. A series of invasions and conflicts rolled down these roads over the centuries. The inhabitants of the powerful County of Provence—of which Aix-en-Provence was the capital—were, during certain periods, obliged to take refuge in the hills, giving birth to picturesque villages. Agriculture and commerce developed during the peaceful periods. Over the last few centuries, migratory patterns have made this region a melting pot of peoples from many countries, and Marseille the most cosmopolitan city in France.

The Phoenician city never ceases to evoke passions. Praised and adored by some, condemned by others, Marseille leaves no one indifferent. Unique in France because of its exceptional location, its vitality, its many “village-neighborhoods” (over a hundred, each with its own character and traditions), and its symbols: the old port, the shopping street of Canebiere, as well as the “good mother,” the church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde. The road that runs along the cliffs offers superb views of the port, the bay, the legendary Chateau d’If, and the Frioul Islands. The splendid panorama of Cape Croisette takes in craggy rocks, coves, sandy beaches, islets, flower-covered cabanons (fishing huts), palms, strawberry trees, tiny fishing ports, and restaurants hidden amongst the pines. The city’s scenery, its colors, and its light seduced Impressionist painters like Cézanne, who stayed in the port of Estaque, as well as Dufy and Braque.

On the Mediterranean coast, near the regional metropolis, are two very different natural treasures: to the east, the calanques—the Mediterranean version of a fjord—and to the west, the Camargue. The calanques feature breathtaking coastline carved with deep, narrow inlets—a symphony of color. The sheer cliffs in raw shades of red and brown plunge deep into the turquoise waters and provide a sumptuous background for hikers and climbers. For centuries, the salty waters of this rocky coast were a haven for fishermen, thanks to the diversity of its fish (rockfish, red mullet, and grouper) before this precious resource began to diminish. A complete contrast with the Camargue, a unique French landscape where marshes mix with grasslands. Over time, the Rhone River deposited large quantities of sediment that was eroded by the sea and shifted by the tides, thus isolating the marshes. This immense delta, criss-crossed by channels and rivulets, gorged with salt, subject to the wind and the sun, shelters an exceptional array of flora and fauna. Pink flamingos come to build nests amongst hundreds of species of birds. This is the kingdom of wild horses, of black bulls destined for the bullrings (Arles, Nimes, or Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer) or the course carmaguaise bull games, of ranch owners, and of cowboys in local costume on white horses like those of their herds…The Camargue offers visitors an endless list of possibilities.

The artistic heritage of the region is exceptional. That of the town of Avignon is particularly rich. It was the setting for an important historic period. The popes, fleeing the dangers of Rome, found refuge in a city that became the capital of Christianity for over a century (the 14th century). Gothic art blossomed there: the ramparts, the Pope’s Palace, the convents, churches, and splendid mansions that housed the clergy all date from this period. The former capital of the province, Aix-en-Provence, is today a capital of culture and art, boasting a remarkable collection of mansions from the 17th and 18th centuries. The name of “Good King René,” the sovereign of Naples and Count of Anjou and Provence, is often praised here; images of this exceptional monarch, a lover of poetry and painting, adorn the town. The region is also known for its “Roman cites,” Orange, Vaison-la-Romaine, and Arles, the former capital of Roman Gaul. Finally, for those who appreciate harmony, calm, and contemplation, Provence possesses superb Cistercian abbeys, like the three sisters: Sénanque, Silvacane, and Le Thoronet—remarkable for their stylistic restraint and absence of ostentatious decoration.

Nature has been kind to Provence. The Rhone and the Durance rivers converge here. Water, source of life, is a central character in several novels by Jean Giono, which realistically describe peasant life in a previous epoch. Modern agriculture is very present these days, especially in Venaissin County and the Durance Valley, two of France’s most productive suppliers of fruits and vegetables. Lines of cypress trees protect the crops from the intense Mistral wind, which blows with force down the Rhone Valley. This ferocious wind bends trees, bangs shutters, and can, according to some, drive people to the brink of insanity. But it also wipes the sky clean, blowing away the clouds to let the sun shine. The Mistral used to make the windmills turn, back in the days of Alphonse Daudet, who wrote about them and poetically brought them to life in his stories.

The summit of Mount Ventoux—The Giant of Provence—makes a marvelous observation point. Enchantment is everywhere. The craggy range called the Dentelles de Montmirail, the Vaucluse plateau, the Lure massif, the Durance Valley, the Valensole plateau, the Luberon massif, Mount Sainte-Victoire (immortalized by Cezanne), the Sainte-Baume massif, the Alpille mountains…to each its own magic. What could be more appealing than the picturesque villages hugging the slopes of the Luberon? Or more charming than a stroll through the ochre quarries of Roussillon and Rustrel, or through a scented field of lavender on the Valensole plateau in July? What could be more exciting than a walk through Baux-de-Provence, a stony citadel of legends, fairies, and elves? Since time immemorial, these landscapes have impressed visitors and inspired painters, many of whose best work was nourished by images of Provence. All painters of light. Cezanne, a native son, Van Gogh, who lived in Arles, Signac, Braque, Picasso, de Staël, the Fauvists, Derain, Dufy, Matisse, etc. Fascinated by the landscapes, they juggled with the sun and bright colors in a land where the blues of the sea and the sky run into the yellows and reds of the sun, the ochre and white of the cliffs, the greens of the forests, the silvery grey of the olive trees….

Provencal literature is equally brilliant, particularly as written in the local language, Provencal, a dialect of Occitan. The troubadour poets of Provence were particularly successful in the courts of Europe. Petrarch, who lived in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, was inspired by the countryside and its inhabitants. In the 19th century, Frederic Mistral and his movement “Le Felibrige” passionately revived the Provencal language. The region has always been an inexhaustible source of inspiration for writers. The country and the people are admirably described in the works of Jean Giono, Alphonse Daudet, and Marcel Pagnol, all of whom deeply loved their native Provence. Certain characters became symbols of the region, and were later popularized in the cinema, such as Tartarin de Tarascon, Marius, Fanny, and Cesar. As were the shepherds and peasants of Haute-Provence, the old port of Marseille and the ferry boat. A melodious accent and a talent for telling stories can transform a banal incident into an epic!

Provencals have always been very attached to local tradition and ancient customs. Every Christmas santons reappear; those beautiful little hand-painted clay figurines of people and animals that decorate nativity scenes. Representations of various vocations of yesteryear are gathered around the Christ child: shepherd, miller, washerwoman, fisherman, scissors-grinder, and tambourine player. Christmas in Provence has always been an important holiday, sanctified with rituals, like the Christmas Eve dinner with its thirteen deserts, a homage to Christ and his apostles. Provencal folklore could not exist without the tambourinaires, local musicians who play tambourine and flute to accompany the farandole, a traditional dance. Nor would it be complete without the brightly colored traditional costumes, like that of the women of Arles. Midnight mass does not happen without pastrage, shepherds offering a lamb to Christ accompanied by fifes and tambourines. And what would a relaxing day be without a good game of petanque, the Provencal version of lawn bowling? In this convivial country, petanque is a ritual, an institution. Much more than aiming, bowling, measuring, or counting points, pentanque is a way of life.

In Provence, local festivals and events linked to ancient traditions, religious or pagan, take place all year long. La chandeleur (crepe festival), Carnival, Easter fiestas, cowboy festivals, gypsy pilgrimages (to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer), horse festivals, bullfighting games, Mediterranean plant festival, the festival of the Tarasque (or dragon), or of the sea, santon fairs, santon art biennial, ceramic festival, festivals of lavender, rice, grape harvest, olives, transhumance, Provencal shepherds, traditional midnight masses, etc. Information about these events can be found at tourist offices, which also provide ideas, itineraries, and themed tours for curious travelers.

Provencal cuisine is an elegant and imaginative marriage of ingredients from land and sea. This “cuisine of the sun,” as it is invariably called, has a signature dish—bouillabaisse. Recipes vary according to what kind of fish is available (rockfish, red mullet, conger, etc.), but there is always a dose of local vegetables, herbs, and rouille—a sauce made with olive oil, breadcrumbs, and garlic. Fresh herbs are a standout in the famous open-air markets of Provence, which are rich with colors, tastes, and scents. Rosemary, thyme, winter savory, bay leaf, tarragon, basil, sage, creeping thyme, etc. flavor dishes in keeping with the cook’s imagination. A symphony of aromas. And let’s not forget garlic, olive oil, aioli, lamb from the hills of Crau and nearby mountains, and goat and sheep cheese. To wash it all down, Province produces high quality wines, including the prestigious Côtes-du-Rhône, Côtes-de-Ventoux, Côtes-de-Luberon, and Côtes-de-Provence. And to quench one’s thirst at the end of a hot summer’s day, why not indulge in a glass of pastis in one of the many delightful corners that the people of Provence are so good at finding. Like under a trellis, or in the shade of an ancient fig tree where cicadas are chirping…
In Provence, you don’t talk about the good life, you live it.

Boutique hotels and designer BBs in the Provence