Toulouse, Lourdes, Albi, Rocamadour, Millau, Cahors, Figeac and Souillac
This vast region has been geographically carved out by the Garonne, the great river into which many well-known rivers flow:
the Ariège, the Tarn, the Aveyron, the Lot, coming down from the Massif Central, the Gers and the Baïse, winding down from the Pyrenees. It boasts an extraordinary diversity of landscapes, produce, environments and ways of life. It’s a genuine mosaic of countryside, tall mountains (the Southern Pyrenees range), plains and hills furrowed by deep valleys and highlands (Rouergue and the southern foothills of the Massif central). The Midi Pyrenées harbours great cultural and architectural wealth, a strong respect for tradition, a generous natural environment and a renowned cuisine derived from the rich produce of this fertile land.
Its quality of life is world-famous.
The highest mountains in the Pyrenees are in the center of the range, amongst grandiose landscapes laced with rushing rivers, cascading torrents, summits and deep valleys. In these mountains the authenticity of a way of life has been preserved, as have its magnificent sites. For centuries, sheep and cattle raising was the only way to make a living here. Herding, making and selling cheese, and country living drove the social organization of the valleys and foothills. Natural hot springs and tourism now constitute essential economic resources. Celebrated sites and summits like the Cirque de Gavarnie and the Pic du Midi in Bigorre have become legendary challenges on the Tour de France cycling race. Spa towns and ski resorts draw tourists, health-seekers, and hikers looking for pristine natural sites.
Agriculture flourishes in the plains and up on the plateaus, right up to the foothills of the Pyrenees and the Massif Central. Weather conditions determine which crops get planted. Corn, which needs large quantities of water and sun, is the sovereign crop, and serves as feed for farm animals. Grapevines are favored on the hills of Armagnac (the famous brandy that is made from white wine) and on the banks of the Tarn River (Gaillac). The contrast between the mountains and the plains is also reflected in the local architecture. Hardy and solid, with stone walls and slate roofs in the Pyrenees and the Rouergue. Elegant, with brick walls and Romanesque tiles in the plains. Bricks color villages, fortified towns, and churches red and rose in the Toulouse region. Light, solid, and easy to use, illuminated by the sun’s rays, bricks have given architects a tool for creating magnificent edifices, notably the naves of cathedrals. Which is why this area is called “French Tuscany,” Toulouse the “Pink City,” and Albi the “Red City.”
The Midi-Pyrenees’ cultural riches—whether historic, architectural, literary, or artistic—are of an infinite diversity. This was the land of the troubadours in the early Middle Ages. Warlords dubbed themselves knights, and were great admirers of beautiful ladies, music, and poetry in Occitan (the language of the “Oc Country”). The Albigensian Crusade was a somber period for this region; at the request of the Pope, the king’s armies attacked Cathar fiefs and the possessions of the Counts of Toulouse. These wars were very bloody, and after being defeated, the region was annexed to the kingdom of France. The final episode of this tragedy was enacted at the last two Cathar bastions, Montségur and Quéribus, which were taken by the king’s soldiers. Today, tourists can visit the ruins of these castles.
As in Aquitaine, bastides can be found all over certain parts of the region. Created in the Middle Ages, these carefully laid-out towns were planned with both security and economic development in mind, but offer picturesque esthetics as well. Ramparts, covered markets, and airy town squares that open onto the church and the town hall (called the “capitouls”). Several scenic routes wind through villages, bastides, and other charming areas: Villefranche-de-Rouergue, Najac, Sauveterre and La Bastide l’Evêque, near Rodez, Castelnau de Montmirail, Cordes, Pennes and Bruniquel, near Albi, Lectoure, Condom, Montréal, Fleurance and Montesquiou near Auch, Mirepoix, Rieux and Montesquieu near Foix, Auvillar near Montauban, etc.
In Midi Pyrenees, by following the pilgrimage trails that lead to Santiago de Compostela you can also trace the history of the Christian faith during an exceptionally fervent epoch: the Middle Ages. Two popular itineraries—one leaving from Puy-en-Velay, and the other from Arles—cross the region in the direction of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the western Pyrenees. For centuries, the chapels, hospices, and abbeys that line these trails served as refuges for pilgrims. The abbey of Ste-Foy in Conques, the village of Rocamadour, the abbey of St-Pierre in Moissac, the basilica of St-Sernin in Toulouse, and St-Bertrand-de-Comminges are the most prestigious testaments of this vast movement. Imported techniques from Italy during this period had great impact on Romanesque art, characterized by frescos in the Lombard style, and campaniles, tall, four-sided bell towers which can be found all over the region. During the Gothic period, the area around Toulouse developed its own style, characterized by the use of brick, as in the Cordeliers convent in Toulouse, the Albi Cathedral, etc.
For those who enjoy paintings, the region has its “golden triangle.” Three museums: Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, Ingres in Montauban, and Goya in Castres (the first two artists were natives of the region). In musketeer country, where three is always four, this art tour can be complemented by a visit to the Augustins museum in Toulouse, which exhibits interesting works by French painters. Those who prefer the legend of the Three Musketeers, made famous by the work of Alexandre Dumas, need only head towards the Gers, the homeland of the most famous Gascon of all, d’Artagnan!
With its mountains and plains, the region offers an exceptionally diverse selection of outdoor activities: winter sports, hiking, horseback riding, climbing, fishing, and hunting, but also spelunking (exceptional underground environment), kayaking, rafting, cycling, etc. A wide variety of itineraries are on offer: the most beautiful villages, bastides, sacred places, the Santiago de Compostela trails, paintings, etc. Local traditions are at the origin of popular themed festivals: bullring games in Armagnac, ferias, livestock festivals, mountain festivals, animal festivals, medieval events, celebrations of flowers, violets, beans, garlic, cathedral builders, sound and light shows, etc. People love to party here! And let’s not forget rugby, the team sport that is the most solidly anchored in the region, from the big cities to the tiniest hamlet. The sport that brings people together and tears them apart, that inspires conviviality, sparks passions, and provides subject matter for endless discussion before, during and after the match (the third half time)!
Other than the passion for partying, one of the most popular obsessions in this vast region is good food. Regional specialties are succulent, the most famous dish being cassoulet. There are three varieties here, from Castelnaudary, from Toulouse, and from Carcassone. There are also two varieties of beans, the “lingot” from Tarbes, and the “coco” from Lauragais. Poultry, duck, and foie gras, both duck and goose, figure prominently on Gascon menus. In Rouergue, country cooking includes recipes with pork or mutton and sometimes tripe. The sausages and hams of the mountains of Laucaune have earned a well-merited reputation for excellence. Cheeses made from both cow’s and sheep’s milk are also produced in the Pyrenees and the Rouergue. Local cheese mixed with potato puree gave birth to aligot, the legendary dish of Aubrac. As for wine, the regional production, which includes Gaillac wines, has a high reputation.
The vast region of the Midi Pyrenees offers an immense range of choices: gastronomy is an intrinsic part of the art of living.
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